December 2009

New One-Handed

Mascara Wand

December 10, 2009

Belvada, a new name in mascara developed by Dov Grossnass, and HCP USA have collaborated to develop the industrial design and manufacturing technology for the Canadian beauty company’s one-handed mascara.

Belvada’s pen-style applicator features a slider mechanism that propels the brush out through a patent pending double wiper seal system, enabling product delivery without clumping or wastage. Virtually no air is able to enter the formulation chamber during application, keeping the mascara fresh.

The pack boasts a gunmetal finish and a white silk screen printed Belvada logo.

No reports have been made yet on when this new product will hit stores.

Source: cosmeticsbusiness.com

Sephora

Vending Machines

December 8, 2009

Sephora is testing a number of beauty vending machines in selected JCPenney department stores selling fragrance and skincare products.

Since 2006 the beauty manufacturer and retailer has operated a number of boutiques inside the JCPenney stores.

A spokesperson for JCPenney explained the vending machine concept was designed for the smaller stores that can’t support a full beauty boutique.

The ZoomShop is an automated kiosk 7 feet tall and 7 feet wide that offers nearly 50 of Sephora’s best selling makeup, skincare and fragrance products.

Touch screens help the consumer to make their choice of product which is then paid for by credit card.

Small scale test

Although the introduction of the beauty vending machines is a relatively small scale test – in only 20 of JCPenney’s 1,100 plus stores, if successful it could be expanded into more locations from Spring next year.

The vending machines, Zoom Shops, were developed by Zoom Systems which operates with a number of well known brands in a variety of locations.

According to the company, Zoom Shops combine the best of online shopping with the immediacy of traditional retail.

Machines represent all the brands

The vending machines are designed to fully represent the brands and each Zoom Shop is customized with signage, graphics and TV and web content that fits the brand being sold.

In this way consumers can be sure the product they are purchasing is of the same quality and has the same product guarantees as one purchased from a usual retail outlet.

Products from consumer electronics brands such as apple and sony can be found in the Zoom Shops at airports and malls as well as retail outlets, but how the ZoomShops will perform on products that consumers would often test before purchase remains to be seen.

Source: Katie Bird, cosmeticsdesign.com

Christian LaCroix Fragrance

-Licensed Off

December 4, 2009

French law courts have decided that the Christian Lacroix fashion house will close its haute couture business, while its fragrances and accessories will be licensed out.

The luxury brand, which is defined by a chic image with baroque detailing, has been running as a business since 1987, but is said never to have made a profit.

In a turnaround plan proposed to the French law courts by the company’s current owner, the Falic Group, the staff will be cut from 120 to approximately 11.

The move leaves Falic to enter into direct discussions with Gulf investor Hassan bin Ali al-Nuaimi, who has had a long-standing interest in the business, ever since Christian Lacroix announced it had financial difficulties back in June of this year.

Currently Christian Lacroix markets four principal fragrance brands, the self-named Christian Lacroix brand, Bazar, Tumulte and C’est La Fete, all of which have worldwide distribution, which collectively have been the most profitable part of the business.

The move to split the business up underlines the fact that consumers have turned their back on high end luxury brands as a result of falling incomes bought about by the global economic downturn.

Consequently nearly all luxury and high end cosmetics brands have succumbed to the added pressure caused by the economic climate this year, with most players reporting declining sales during the course of the year

Indeed, the situation has proved so serious that it has meant that many players, Christian Lacroix being just the latest victim to form a growing list of companies, have decided to call it a day .

As a consequence 2009 has spelt the end in the US for brands such as Crabtree & Evelyn, Prescriptives and Max Factor.

Source: Simon Pitman, cosmeticsdesign.com

BANNED: Olay Ad Featuring Twiggy

December 16, 2009

The Advertising Standards Authority has upheld over 700 complaints that a Procter and Gamble ad for Olay Definity eye illuminator, featuring model Twiggy is misleading.

The complainants said the ad was misleading because they believed the image of Twiggy had been digitally retouched.

The ASA received two complaints directly about the ad in addition to those from 700 members of the public as part of a website campaign led by Jo Swinson MP.

The complainants who were party of Swinson’s campaign also said the ad was socially irresponsible.

The ASA didn’t find the ad to be socially irresponsible as it said the ad was placed in magazines that targeted mature women who were unlikely to have negative perceptions of body image.

The ad in question was a magazine ad for the Olay Definity eye illuminator, which featured an image of Twiggy with a testimonial stating, “Olay is my secret to brighter-looking eyes.” The ad text went on to say, “Because younger-looking eyes never go out of fashion.”

The original ad was withdrawn by P&G in July after it was questioned in the media. It was replaced with one in which P&G said there was no post-production work in the eye area.

Following Wednesday’s ruling, P&G issued a written statement, which said: “We feature women who are aspirational and relevant to the women who buy our products, such as Twiggy, in our advertising. We apply strict rules to our advertising visuals. When we realised that the minor retouching around Twiggy’s eyes was inconsistent with our policies we promptly and voluntarily withdrew the original visual, substituting it immediately with the current one which has no post-production work at all in the eye area…The Definity advertisement was placed only in magazine titles aimed at mature women, to whom Twiggy is relevant.”

An ASA spokesman said it has not received any complaints for the current Olay Definity ad featuring Twiggy and that it does not have any retouching.

“As long as an ad doesn’t mislead consumers, we’re happy with the product,” the spokesman said.

Source: cosmeticsinternational.net

Brazil retail growth still

being fueled by cosmetics

December 16, 2009

Latest Brazil retail sales figures for October show that growth continues at a world-leading pace and that cosmetics are one of the hottest categories.

Data published by the Monthly Trade Survey from the Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics (IBGE) shows that retail sales for the month grew by 1.4 percent compared to September, the highest month-on-month growth since June of this year.

However, the perfumery and cosmetics category outpaced this figure by far, recording month-on-month sales growth of 2.4 per cent, a figure that reinforces predictions that percentage growth for the category could be well into double figures in 2009.

Retail growth down to greater spending power

The IBGE attributes the break neck retail growth in Brazil to the fact that country’s population has achieved greater purchasing power through higher employment levels and more stable retail prices.

The figure shows that retail sales have grown by 5.1 percent in the year to date ending in October, a stark contrast to many of the developed global markets, where percentage decreases have been recorded into double figures.

Brazil has been leading the way in the global personal care market in recent years, posting annual growth that has beaten all other global markets for the past two years, according to industry association ABIHPEC.

Brazil cosmetics market leads the world

In 2008 the Brazilian Association of Toiletries, Perfumes & Cosmetics (Abihpec) said that the Brazil market grew at 8.6 percent in 2008 to reach BRL 21.2bn ($8.9bn), a figure that is currently only matched by the Chinese and Indian markets.

Although the figures was still industry-leading, growth was significantly down on the year 2007, when the market grew by 14 percent and was placed as the world’s fourth largest market for personal care.

At the beginning of this year, the association’s president Joao Carlos Basilio said he believed that the global economic downturn may spell even greater opportunities for Brazilian personal care exports, as economic conditions are likely to improve the competitiveness of its exports.

Source: cosmeticsdesign.com

Israeli cosmetic products seized

by Palestinian officials


December 17, 2009

Products from Israeli company, Dead Sea Cosmetics, have been destroyed by Palestinian custom officials as part of a campaign against goods manufactured in Israeli settlements.

The company has factories in Israeli settlements in the West Bank, which has led to a number of organizations to call for a boycott of its products in particular the internationally available Ahava brand.

Palestinian custom officials this week destroyed €38,000 worth of Ahava products, including shampoos, face cream and hand lotions, according to press reports.

“This destruction … is in keeping with the decision of the Palestinian leadership to prevent the import and sale of products produced in the settlements,” local official Munthar Erakat said, as quoted in news agency the Associated France Press.

The company is also being scrutinized by Dutch officials, but this time regarding a tax issue.

Dutch foreign minister Maxime Verhagen has asked that the company’s practices be investigated after a question was raised in parliament as to whether Dead Sea Cosmetics is benefiting from the lower tariffs reserved for ‘Made in Israel’ products, when in fact they are produced in the settlements.

Codepink boycott

Earlier this year spokesperson for the brand Kristin Davis came under criticism following a boycott of the products by US women’s peace organization Codepink.

Entitled Stolen Beauty, the boycott claims the company is stealing Palestinian natural resources in the illegally occupied territories of the West Bank in the form of Dead Sea minerals and mud.

“Don’t let the “Made in Israel” sticker fool you—when you buy Ahava products you help finance the destruction of hope for a peaceful and just future for both Israelis and Palestinians,” the campaign reads.

Labeling origin

Products from the West Bank also hit the headlines in the British news this week when the Department for the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) issued advice for retailers wanting to provide more information about the origin of food produced in the Occupied Palestinian Territories.

Current labeling requirements would result in a ‘Produce of the West Bank’ label, but Defra advise retailers and importers who wish to respond to consumer pressure to be more specific, to use wording such as ‘Produce of the West Bank (Israeli settlement produce)’ or ‘Produce of the West Bank (Palestinian produce)’, as appropriate.

This information should be available due to the obligation placed on Israel to mark products with their post code of origin, which allows retailers and importers to distinguish between those produced in Israel and those produced in settlements outside the country’s internationally recognized borders.

No one from Dead Sea Cosmetics was available to comment on this issue at the time of publishing.

Source: Katie Bird, cosmeticsdesign.com

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